The Printed Zipper Pocket Tutorial is ready to go. The instructions include how to print on the fabric and sew it together. You can download it by clicking on the link below.

Printed, Zipped Pocket

These pockets are the result of an afternoon of printing with kids aged between 4 to 8. Armed with painting shirts, and precut fabric we were able to make stamp pads and explore printing with everyday objects.

Each artwork was then turned into a zipped pocket.  I have simplified the steps and used pinking shears where ever possible, to streamline the construction.  It took about 3 hours to sew all 12 pockets together (only 15 minutes each!).

I am planning to enlist the kids to help me make some more for Christmas presents for their friends and teachers.

We had a great time making them.  If you have any questions, suggestions or even photos of the ones you have finished, please drop me a line - seven.stitches.amy(at)gmail.com .

A few notes to start

• The images display best in Adobe Acrobat.  They show up a little blurry on Google Drive

• The measurements have been given in imperial first with metric in brackets.

There has been a little more sewing going on around here. Consider it an effort to get a few more summer dresses into the wardrobes before the weather turns.  My tutorial for the pockets on this little dress are featured at Sew Mama Sew today.

I know winter must be getting closer as I have just traced out the patterns for this year's leggings for the girls.  So far I've lined up grey stripes, teal and blue.  Time to get cutting.

We have been making paper angels for the tree.  They are incredibly simple.  In the interests of angels for all, here is the tutorial.

To make your own Paper Angel you are going to need:

Colored craft paper for gown, wings and face.
PVA glue
Glitter
Sellotape
Double sided tape
Wool
Pens, glitter and stickers for decorating

Trace and cut  a circle from card and cut in half. We used a desert bowl, approx 180 mm diameter.
Decorate one piece for a gown and the other as wings.

Draw a smaller circle on skin toned paper. We used a spice jar, approx 45mm diameter.
Draw a face and glue hair onto the top.
Cut the circle out.

Sellotape the gown to make a cone.
Using double sided tape attach the face.
Fold the wings in half and check for fit, before cutting into the wing shape as below.
Using double sided tape, attach the wings.

Lastly, attach a loop and hang from the tree.

I love kid's Jig-Saw puzzles, but sometimes I just don't want to find another piece behind the couch, underfoot or up the vacuum cleaner. We have started to keep our jigsaw puzzles in line with some custom made bags. In the interests of world peace, here's a tutorial for making your own.

Materials
Clear Plastic PVC (usually sold by the metre as table protector)
Bias tape
Matching thread
Self adhesive velcro dots
Lunchwrap paper

Tools
Sewing machine
Tape measure
Scissors
Ruler
pins

Step 1 - Cut
Measure your jigsaw. Cut out a clear plastic rectangle measuring - 1 1/2" wider than the longest side of puzzle and 2.5 x the shortest size.
i.e if your puzzle measures 11" x 6" the piece of clear plastic will measure 12 1/2" (11+1.5) by 15"(6x2.5).


Step 2 - Wrap
Fold the plastic around the puzzle as shown above to make a pocket that is as deep as the puzzle. If it is shallower, pieces may fall out of the corners of the bag. Cut two strips of bias tape a little longer than the two sides and pin at the top to secure.

Step 3 - Stabilise and Stitch
Set your machine to the widest and longest Zig-Zag. Place a piece of thin paper (I am using lunch wrap) behind the bias tape. The plastic can cling to the plate of your machine and this paper helps to keep things moving as you sew. Beginning with a bar tack (zig-zag in one place) at the top, stitch towards the bottom and finish with a bar tack while still over the plastic.




Step 4 - Rip and Remove
After stitching both sides, rip away the paper and get the last little bits out of the stitching with a pin. The bias tape may have stretched slightly as you stitch, so trim to length after stitching.

Step 5 - Stick
Close the bag to get an idea of where the flap will finish on the bag. Again, you want this to be snug to stop pieces falling out of the corner of the bag. Place the loop side of the velcro dots on the main envelop just under the line where the flap finishes. Press firmly to make it stick, then remove the hook dots and grip them to the loops. Fold the flap over and press firmly again, to get the hook dots to stick to the flap.

Tips:
For a no-sew option, you can replace the bias tape with duct tape.

I have sewn in zig-zag so that there is more than one line of stitching holes holding the side of the bag together. A single line of stitching would make removing the paper easier, but the bag would not be as strong.

Bias tape can stretch as you sew so sew from the top to the bottom of the bag to make it easier to trim any extra length. Cutting the strip over long gives you something to hold onto as you trim too.

Drop me a line if there is anything that isn't working for you or needs more detail. I'd love to hear how you get on making these.

As part of the Small Hands Christmas Swap, we needed to find some simple cards that everyone in the family could make. We decided on these Pipe Cleaner Christmas Tree Cards. I know it's a bit of a mouthful to say, but so much fun to make.

To make your own you will need:
Card stock (we used red, obviously)
Ice block sticks
PVA Glue
Pipe cleaners
Beads
Pliers (for cutting the pipe cleaners)
Scissors (for cutting the paper)

Step 1 - Cut pipe cleaners and wrap then around the ice-block stick tree trunk. Using the pliers, pinch each set of branches to hold then in place and then, with the pliers again, trim the tree to shape.

Step 2 - Thread the beads onto the branches.

Step 3 - Cut card to size and fold. Glue the back of the trunk to the tree. If needed hold the trunk in place with pegs until the glue dries.

There you have it. Finished trees. The kids' involvement varies with age - Miss 4 was able to wrap the pipe cleaners around each trunk and both Miss 2 & 4 too great delight in threading the beads on. We even had enough left over to start making beaded stars and course, I got a little carried away thinking about other shapes you could make.

For you own private sundial-

Take one sunny afternoon, some chalk, a driveway, willing children and some time. Mark a spot for the feet. Trace around the shadow, wait and repeat.

Now that is has rained, it's time to start again.

I had a vague recollection of walking to the neighbours with roller skates but really had no idea how much I would love a smooth driveway until I had children, tricycles and chalk.

Here it is, a tutorial for Friendship Hearts. The beauty of this block is that it is made in matching pairs, one to keep and one to give away.

This block came about as I was given the challenge of making a quilt block including a heart. I set to make it as simple as possible and came up with this. I first made this block for Abi in march last year and promised a tutorial to follow. The gift cards in the stores are prompting me to do something now, rather than later.

You will need:
At least 2 fabrics with a light/dark contrast
2 rectangles - 6 1/2" x 7"
2 rectangles - 5 3/4" x 2 1/2" (with pinked edges)
2 rectangles - 5" x 1 3/4" (with pinked edges)

Step 1 - Round off Ends
Use a compass or random household objects (I used some glasses) to trace out a circle on the to the ends of the smaller rectangles on the wrong side. Cut around the line.
Note: if you are using a pinking blade on a rotary cutter, use a series of smaller straight lines to make the curve, one long curve can really chew up a cutting mat.

Step 2 - Place the Shapes
Place the rectangles, long side down and finger crease as shown - one central vertical line to both and a diagonal from upper left to lower right to one and lower left to upper right to the other. Finger crease the large rectangle into 4 quarters. Line up the long crease of the medium rectangle with diagonal line in the large rectangle, and using the other creases, align the centres as shown below. Make sure that the central shapes are going in opposite directions, think of each block being one half of the heart.


Step 3 - Machine Applique Layers Together
Pin the medium rectangle and straight stitch in place and press. Starting and stopping at the vertical crease. Place the smallest rectangle and straight stitch into place also. Repeat with the second block also.

Step 4 - Slash and Join
Cut each block on the central seam. Match up opposite sides of your heart and join with a central 1/4" seam. Press.

There you have it, a friendship heart for yourself and a fellow sewer.


Variations:
The heart is offset towards the to of the block - leaving an ideal space to stitch some extra details such as a signature.
The block can be made without rounding the corners as shown above.
If you are not using pinking shears, cutting the block on the bias would allow for evenly frayed and stabilised edges (I should have thought of this before making the blocks above)
The block can be scaled -the medium rectangle measures approx the size of the finished block i.e in this case 6" block, 5 3/4" rectangle with the inner rectangle measuring 3/4" less in all directions.

The following tutorial looks at how to make a Grandmother’s Fan quilt block. This is a traditional block that was very popular in the 1930’s and reflects the sunburst motifs of Art Deco. It is much like a Dresden Plate block but allows for a little more tolerance as it is only a quarter circle. This tutorial includes making the templates for a 10" finished block. The applique is done with vliesofix and machine top stitching.


Materials for 1 block:
10 ½” Square of background fabric
5 fat eighths or
5 fabric scraps measuring at least 6 ½” x 3”
7” square for centre
Vliesofix (about 10” )
Thread to match centre
Thread to blend in with fan
Template plastic
Cardboard
Point turner

Step 1 – Cut Rectangles
Cut the fabric for your blades into rectangles measuring 6 ½ x 3”. If you are using fat eighths cut a 3’ strip across the fabric, and then cut the rectangles. Square up the left over rectangle and keep for the boarder.

Step 2 – Make Points
Fold each blade in half and stitch ¼” from the end. Clip the inside corner and turn the point. Press the blade to create a 45 degree point. Take care not to break through if you are using scissors to turn the corners. A plastic point turner is very useful here.


Step 3 – Create Template
Using the dimensions below, trace the shape onto some template plastic. The sides are at a 9 degree angle. Score the outlines with a sharp object i.e. compass or edge of scissors, and cut out along the score lines. I found plastic with an imperial grid (inches and ¼ inches) on it to be very useful. A transparent ice-cream container lid would work also.

Step 3 – Trim Blades
Tuck the template into the point of the blade and trim the sides. I mark the sides of the base on the blade and then line up a ruler from hip of the blade to the waist before cutting.

Step 4 – Assemble Fan
Arrange a fan of 5 blades. Alternating light and dark or different colours helps to give each block a balanced look. Starting with a backstitch at the outside and stitching towards the waist, sew the blades together. Press the seams to one side.


Step 5 – Back the Fan
Trace around the fan onto some cardboard and cut out the template. Using this template, trace a fan shape onto vliesofix and cut out. The template is especially handy if you are making more than one block. Iron the vliesofix onto the back of the fan.

Step 6 – Locate Fan
Finger crease the background square to create a diagonal line. Remove the vliesofix backing and Line up the fan with the central point on the crease line. Press the fan into place. Depending on your stitching, the edges of the blades may extend a little beyond the background fabric. This can be trimmed before joining the blocks together.

Step 7 – Fix Fan
With the blending thread, edgestitch the fan into place. In this example I have used cream thread.

Step 8 – Create Inner Circle
Cut a 7 1/4 ” (corrected to 7 1/4", April 2016) circle out of cardboard or template plastic. Trace circle onto vliesofix and cut out. Iron the circle of vliesofix onto the centre fabric. Cut the circle out with a half inch seam allowance.


Step 9 – Edging Inner Circle
Baste around the circle, ¼” from the edge of the vliesofix. Place the template over the vliesofix and pull the threads tight. Press the circle to give a smooth edge before removing the template.

Step 10 – Quarter Circle
Cut the circle into 4. Leave the vliesofix paper on the back of the quarters.

Step 11 – Trim Up
Remove the vliesofix backing paper from one quarter. Place one quarter over the block. Hold this up to the light to check to see if any of the fans extend beyond the seam allowance of the circle. If needed, trim the inner ends of the blades so that they cannot be seen through the circle.

Step 12 – Finishing
Place the quarter circle in the corner of the block and press into place. Edge stitch, using a thread to match the circle, and you have finished.

Design Tips

This pattern can be adjusted for different size blocks. Drop me a line if you need help with the dimensions.

There are a number of ways the blocks can be set out - on point, all facing one way, radiating out from a point or my favourite - alternating like butterfly wings.

The proportions of blade to centre circle are traditionally 2:1 i.e 6" blade, 3" centre

The finished block size of 10" work well with using the remnant squares (2 1/2" finished) in the border.

Using an odd number of blades in each quarter helps to keep each block balanced. For example, if you are alternating 2 blade colours, each block will start and finish with the same colour.

I would love to know how you get on with your blocks and if there are any parts I can help with drop me a line too.

I have had some requests for instructions on how to make a Grandmother's fan block. As you can see Miss H and I have been working on it together. Grab a cup of tea and meet me back here for it soon.


In the interim, the grandmother's fan block is much like a Dresden plate, so I will leave you with some links for this eye catching block:

Oh Fransson! @ Sew Mama Sew
Amy @ Bad Skirt
John'aLee @ Scrap Apple Yard

The following tutorial shows how to make Plastic Beasts, using items that would normally end up in your recycling bin.


Getting your materials together...

Materials

Plastic Bottle (coloured or opaque)
Plastic Bottle Caps (assorted colours and sizes)
Scraps of Plastic
Wire
Plywood or Light Board
Needle Nose Pliers
Kitchen Snips
Drill or Hammer & Nail
Drawing Pin
Craft Knife
String

Step 1
Cut base from the plastic bottle. Clean plastic bottle removing all labels, chemicals and tacky residue.

Step 2
Drill holes in centres of bottle caps.

Step 3
Cut 2 long lengths of wire. The red bottle above uses approx 40 cm, however shorter lengths will work for the soda bottles. Twist a loop into one end of each piece of wire.

Step 4
Thread antlers, using and assortment of colours. Sipper caps make a good antler tips. Ensure that the wire loop is pulled snug into the first cap.

Step 5
Create the eyes. Consider nesting smaller bottle caps inside larger ones to create pupils. Cut plastic scraps (in this case a yoghurt container) to create eye lashes if required.

Step 6
Cut 2 smaller lengths of wire. The image above uses approx 20 cm. Twist a loop into one end of each piece of wire and thread the eyes.

Step 7
Determine the location of eyes and antlers and mark onto the bottle with a pen. Punch a hole for the eyes using a drawing pin or nail.
Step 8
Thread the eyes onto the bottle. Twist the long ends of the wire together inside the bottle to secure and trim the wire to finish. Ensure the wires are snug enough to secure the eyes, without overly distorting the face shape.

Step 9
Check the location of the antlers and adjust if needed. Punch holes for the antlers.

Step 10
Turn the bottle over and punch a small hole under the chin.

Step 11
Thread the antlers through the top two holes. Thread additional bottle caps onto the wires before twisting the wires together. The internal bottle caps prevent the bottle from distorting when the wires are twisted or the antlers are adjusted.

Step 12
Secure the antlers by threading the long ends of the wire through the hole to the chin. Thread a small bottle cap over the wire ends and secure. This prevents the antlers from rotating under their own weight.

Step 13
Mount the head onto the selected board. The space inside the bottle is quite tight and the board relatively thin. I have used string to avoid damaging the wall behind once the Taxidermy is hung. In this case 2 holes were drilled into both the head and the board. The head was then tied to the board.
Tips

Spread the word that you are collecting bottle caps to help grow your bottle cap collection.

The monsters in this tutorial have been inspired the recycled creations from this website.

Children can be involved in creating the taxidermy with a little help and forethought..

For 3-7 year olds consider preparing the bottle, bottle caps, and wires allowing the children to thread the antlers, create the eyes and locate them on their bottle, before getting a grown up to tie it all together.

For older children who are capable with the wire, pliers and craft knife – let them go for it.

These beasts use an 18 gauge wire (1.25 mm diameter). This is quite flexible and easy to work with however, the antlers on larger beast droop like a water buffalo. To keep the antlers up, consider using a thicker gauge wire for the antler ends and thin gauge for areas where there is a lot of twisting and securing required.


Edited to fix link to www.mahatsara.com (30 August)